This is the season for trekking in Peru, while the weather and conditions back in Canada during late May and June is often wet and muddy, the conditions in the Cordillera's Blanca and Huayhuash are prime. The mountains still have a dusting of fresh snow on them from the rainy season which has just finished, and even though it feels like spring the winter season is just about to happen.
The trip getting to Huaraz involves a 8 hour bus ride over dry coastal plains around Lima, and then to higher mountain elevations.
This year the rain was substantial causing huge floods in the Macchu Picchu area, and less in the north.
The roads and trails were effected by wet weather, and as the dry season of winter approaches everyone is glad to see nicer days.
This is also the time of year where we see a large amount of climbers and trekkers arriving in Peru for adventures of all kinds. Many of the peaks in the Cordillera range reach 6100m/20000' or higher. Huascaran is the highest peak in Peru at just under 6800m/22200'. It can be found just down the Rio Santa valley from Huaraz, and is spectacular to say the least!
The trekking in Peru offers a cultural twist as well. The Campesinos who inhabit the mountains are characters in their own rite. They often relying on horse or foot travel from the highlands to the busier towns and cities that are scattered throughout the valleys of the Cordilleras.
Our group this year was Colleene Clark-Peterson and Karen Squires from Canmore, Jean Woeller from Calgary in Canada, Graham (Weeg) Matthews from Weaverville, California and Graham Vickowski from Springfield Mass in the U.S.A.
The altitude creates a noticeable change from what we are used to in North America, and headaches along with shortness of breath are common feelings while getting used to these elevations. After a week or 10 days everyone is feeling some what normal again. But you certainly could not break into a sprint of 100m/300'... and not feel knackered.
As we leave for the Cordillera Huayhuash, we are all ready to go exploring, hopefully seeing many parts of this area.
The days vary between short and longer based on where we can camp. And the local villages have designated sites. Range country is everywhere you look. Horses, cows, sheep and chickens provide fantastic free range meat which in turn supplies the larger centers of Peru.
The mountains of the Huayhuash are famous for being difficult to climb. Yerupaja is Peru's 2nd highest at 6617m/21709'. What made our trip even more exciting was the fact that Weeg's father Graham Sr. was on the climbing expedition that made the first ascent of Yerupaja in 1950. Plus another friend and guide Lloyd Gallagher, made the second ascent of Yerupaja in 1966. So all this information sure made for a close to home feeling while on our trek.
And another famous attachment to the area was Joe Simpson's epic survival story of climbing on Siula Grand. This famous story has made one of mountaineering's most gripping stories.
The trek took us 14 days to complete, as we did numerous side trips for views and photography. A well know and local family by the name of the Bedon's took care of our gear and camp logistics for the entire trek. Salchay, Klaus, Binder and Riccardo are all family members who have been trekking around these peaks. Salchay's father started porting and providing local guides to hikers starting in the 60's.
This is a haven for photographer's with multi-colored peaks, jagged formations and lakes galore.
After the trip Graham Vickowski and I did carried on for another 5 days. We trekked into the Cordillera Blanca, and ended up in the Quebrada Ishinca. Along the way we climbed a couple of peaks that was also very good. Oddly I was now re-visiting peaks I had climbed in 1984 and 1996. The changes in the glaciers was the biggest shock, as they are receding at an alarming rate.
My month in Peru was a treat, and this trek is a must do. My friend Val Pitkethly who co-authored "Trekking and Climbing in the Andes" and who has been a key contact in Peru, is quoted as saying that " The Huayhuash is the best trek in South America". And I would have to agree!
Gracias!
Roger
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